Exploring the Lahinja Landscape Park, Bela Krajina, Slovenia.
Lahinja Landscape Park, Slovenia
The Lahinja Landscape Park is blissfully unspoilt, and we explored it by paddling a boat along a stretch of the Lahinja river, in Bela Krajina, and walking from Pusti Gradec to Mala Lahinja.
The Lahinja Landscape Park (Lahinja Krajinski Park)
The protected 200 hectare Lahinja Landscape Park is located to the south of Crnomelj and was established in 1988 as a joint venture between some enterprising locals, keen to share the natural beauty of their area with people from outside the region. The Lahinja nature reserve is blissfully unspoilt, and we explored it by two means:
Paddling a boat along a stretch of the Lahinja river
Walking from Pusti Gradec to Mala Lahinja
Boat rental on the Lahinja river, Slovenia
Demoiselle (Calopteryx virgo) – common in Slovenia
Paddling along the Lahinja river
The Lahinja river is 34 kilometres long and originates from several karst springs at the end of a steep head valley between the villages of Knežina, Belčji Vrh, and Mali Nerajec
We parked in the small village of Pusti Gradec, and walked down to the river and the Klepcev tourist farm (10, Pusti Gradec). They have 3 different canoes and boats for hire – we chose the flat-bottomed one because we needed to take Draco the bouncy Labrador on our voyage! Boat hire costs 5 euros an hour (June 2022) and in our view is definitely money very well spent. Draco happily jumped into the boat and off we set along the stunningly beautiful, turquoise, limpid Lahinja river, feeling like intrepid explorers.
The area where you can take the boat is limited (probably sensibly, given there are rapids on either side) and so we just happily paddled up and down for an hour – thoroughly enjoying the tranquillity and nature that surrounded us. There are beavers along this stretch of the river but we didn't see any – the story of our lives and we definitely need to become both more stealthy and more patient. However, we did get really close to a beautiful Grey Wagtail and there were huge quantities of bright blue dragonflies and damselflies all around us – magical.
This natural meander in the river was apparently already settled by the Neolithic period. It also passes the historic Klepec sawmill and water mill and a small church (All Saints) that used to belong to the Pusti Gradec medieval castle. The castle was destroyed during the Ottoman incursions with the only remains being the Church – I’d have to say that it really didn't look that old and now I wish we’d had a look inside!
We boated along the stunningly beautiful, turquoise, limpid Lahinja river, feeling like intrepid explorers, and with huge quantities of bright blue dragonflies and damselflies all around us – magical.
Walk from Pusti Gradec to Mala Lahinja
The nature reserves, meanders of the Lahinja and Nerjačica rivers, karst springs and streams, hypothermal springs, sinkholes and rich architectural heritage of the Landscape Park can be explored along a few marked hiking trails. It was very hot on the day we visited so we chose the easy (and shaded) nature trail between Pusti Gradec and Mala Lahinja – choosing to go and return by the same track to stay out of the sun (alternatively you can do a loop and also walk further on to the source of the Lahinja river)
The walk was beautiful (although we did get very lost at the beginning trying, unsuccessfully, to find a cave in the river bank) It’s an easy, wide forest track that for the most part follows the river although some distance above it, with tantalising (given the high temperatures) views of its bright turquoise waters.
The birdsong was incredible and the more unusual birds that we heard or saw included:
Mistle Thrush
Song Thrush
Cuckoo
Jay
Nuthatch
Chiff Chaff
Eurasian Treecreeper
Short-Toed Treecreeper
Spotted Flycatcher
There were also apparently otters in the river down below us, but yet again we couldn't see them. One day!
We walked as far as a natural spring that according to local legend features a spiritual or even divine presence – apparently nymphs used to live there and it was already established in the Bronze Age. Throughout both Iron Ages, residents of the nearby settlements used to bury their dead in mounds near the spring. All very spiritual and it was a lovely cool spot to rest before the return journey (despite having to add nymphs, divine spirits and ghosts to otters and beavers on our ‘not seen’ list)
The walk was beautiful. It’s an easy, wide forest track that for the most part follows the river although some distance above it, with tantalising views of its bright turquoise waters. The birdsong was incredible.
The protected 200 hectare Lahinja Landscape Park, Slovenia.
Tips/helpful info
1 – There are various small-scale tours and activities you can take part in in the Lahinja Landscape Park – all organised by locals and thereby offering highly sustainable tourism. These include exploring the area’s flora & fauna, natural heritage, architectural heritage and ethnology. and whilst we’ve not done any of them, the area really is a genuine ‘hidden treasure’ and so they’re probably well worth checking out. More information can be found at kp-lahinja.si
2 – Included in these is a tasting of buckwheat potica – a local delicacy. This happens in Veliki Nerajec where you will learn about the lives of local people and see a 200 year old house with a black kitchen and chamber. If you arrange it in advance they will take you on a ‘zapravljivcek’ carriage ride around the park, or a sleigh ride in winter.
3 – We stayed during our trip to Bela Krajina at a beautiful holiday cottage in Cudno Selo – just outside Crnomelj. We found it on a new accommodation website we’d not used before: Nature House. It’s based in the Netherlands and, as you’d expect, focuses on cottages, cabins etc in the middle of nature and away from the crowds – perfect for us! The search and booking process was easy and the cottage was lovely – an old log cabin built in 1800. The bathroom was outside and it was definitely ‘back to basics’ but we loved it and it really contributed to our whole ‘immersed in nature’ experience in Bela Krajina. There were endangered turtle doves in the area with their lovely ‘purring’ song, and I even saw one outside the cottage. Amazing! Nature house in Crnomelj
Details
What is it? The region of Bela Krajina (or White Carniola as it is often translated into English) is the extreme south eastern part of Slovenia. The Kolpa river creates the southern border between Slovenia and Croatia and is a regional nature reserve.
Where is it? The largest town in Bela Krajina is Crnomelj, which is about an hour south of Ljubljana.
What does it offer? Bela Krajina is wonderfully unspoilt and offers a winning combination of natural beauty, wilderness, wildlife, vineyards (and consequently great wines), fantastic food and regional delicacies, and various cultural and historical attractions.
Who would love it? Bela Krajina is an absolute ‘go to’ destination for all birdwatchers, fishermen and nature lovers.