A first visit to Marrakech

Marrakesh backed by the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains

Marrakesh conjures up impressions of a terracotta-hued Medina, winding alleys, hectic souks and rooftop bars looking to the snowy High Atlas Mountains. Here’s our take on a first visit…

Our first impressions of Marrakech

Marrakesh (or more correctly, Marrakech). The word immediately conjures up impressions of a terracotta-hued Medina (old City) crammed with narrow, winding alleys, souks selling anything and everything, rooftop bars overlooking the snow-topped High Atlas Mountains, ancient cool and shady riads, brightly coloured rugs and kilims, the fragrance of all manner of exotic herbs and spices, the famous (or infamous) Place Jemaa El Fna, tucking into a steaming tagine or amazing street food, visiting fantastically beautiful historic sites and museums, haggling with stall holders to agree a fair price for fabulous handmade goods, being pampered in a spa or hammam…all absolutely irresistible.

Conversely though, you may also have heard tales of manic traffic, being hassled by aggressive market traders, pickpockets, tourist carriages pulled by horses with ribs like toast racks, getting hopelessly lost in the souks, being scared at night (especially lone women), overwhelming heat in summer etc etc. So, what to believe?

Here’s our take on Marrakech – based upon an initial one night stay (upon arrival in Morocco) and then a two night stay at the end of our trip. Obviously, everyone who visits anywhere will have a different experience, so please let us know how yours differed!

Marrakech airport

Let’s start at the very beginning (a very good place to start): Marrakech airport. Wow!! We’ve never been to such a beautiful airport – it’s absolutely stunning. Blissfully quiet (when we arrived at least), no queues whatsoever and vast.

The airport was expanded and renovated in 2016 – just before the pandemic hit (which of course had a devastating impact on all travel and especially on Morocco, which is so dependent on tourism for both employment and revenue). Thankfully Morocco is now recovering.

We strongly recommend buying a Moroccan sim card at the airport – they insert and set it all up for you but note that you have to pay in cash, in euros.

You will also probably need to buy some Moroccan dirhams because it’s a closed currency and absolutely everything is done in cash. We’d also suggest pre-booking a transfer to your accommodation: the traffic is an absolute nightmare and airport taxis not famed for their honest pricing (if you do get one, agree a price before getting in. It shouldn't be any more than 100 dirhams at the time of writing – 2023. If it’s a smaller taxi, it should be about 70 dirhams – about £6. Set prices are displayed at the airport and don't believe any taxi driver who tells you his meter is broken) A transfer organised by your riad will cost around 150-200 dirhams, but will take you to the door.

Our riad, Riad al Mamoune, was beautiful – exactly what you’d hope one would be like – and we were welcomed with our first Moroccan tea, poured into tiny glasses from a great height and accompanied by little squares of sponge cake.

We were immediately hit by the fragrances and colours of the Med as we left the airport. But thankfully not hit by any of the countless trucks, buses, cars, motorbikes, scooters with no headlights, pushbikes and the occasional mule jostling for right of way on the roads leading into the city. The airport is very close to the Medina (only about 15 minute’s drive) so thankfully the transfer was short. And we survived.

Our airport transfer included being shown the way to our riad (which was in the Medina) on foot, and we were very efficiently swept along through the crowds towards Jemaa-El-Fna square where a rock band was playing on a huge stage. Not quite the authentic atmosphere we’d expected but fun nonetheless. It was markedly less fun at 1am next morning when our supposedly peaceful riad was still resounding to the beat, but never mind.

We ventured out into the souks and Jemaa-El-fna which was a fantastic experience – it was bustling but not too busy and everyone was very friendly. Even the food stall sales guys who tout for business (necessary because the food stalls all seem to sell basically the same thing) were cheerful and took our (polite and smiling) rejections well.

We then had a ‘mocktail’ in a lovely rooftop bar (Shtatto) while watching the sun set over the Atlas Mountains – stunning. We decided to eat at Cuisine de Terrior – and thoroughly enjoyed our first tagine, couscous and tangia. A beer wouldn't have gone amiss after our long journey, but water is so much healthier 🤨

After about two hours’ sleep (due to the aforementioned band and a very firm mattress) we had breakfast and then went to find our driver, before heading off into the Atlas Mountains.

Riad al Mamoune, Marrakech

Fast forward eight days

We stayed in the same riad – Riad al Mamoune - but this time in the Nejma master suite, which was incredible. The Riad is run by Asad, an English guy who’s recently returned to his roots in Morocco. Riad al Mamoune is in a fantastic location not far from Jemaa-El-fna and very close to the evocatively-named ‘spices square’ - Rahba Kedima. The ‘epices’ (spices) square is beautiful, with countless colourful and highly Instagrammable stalls full of spices and herbs of every colour. The street vendors also sell various homeopathic remedies such as (live) baby turtles and baby sting rays which we were less impressed with.

Rahba Kedima is also full of fabulous bars with rooftop terraces – a very welcome respite from the noise and bustle below. Our favourite was Café Snack Chez Maazouz (although we didn't eat there) and we enjoyed checking out all the rooftop bars, while deciding which one to grace with our presence next.

Our attitude towards Marrakech had, interestingly, changed markedly after our week’s stay in the remarkably peaceful and friendly Dades Valley. Graham and I now found Marrakech more difficult to cope with – not helped by the fact that it was much busier (because it was a Saturday).

Things rapidly got worse when we were asked by a friendly-looking guy if we’d like to go to an ‘auction for locals’ – full of colour and authenticity. We’d heard that you must avoid the Marrakech tanneries, but a colourful local market sounded harmless enough. We then walked for ages, being passed from one friendly-looking guy to another. Chris and I soon decided we’d had enough but Graham was intent on following them. Finally, we arrived at...have a guess… yes, the tanneries.

The whole area was horrible; it stank to high heaven and carts overloaded with carcasses and fresh skins, pulled by dejected mules and donkeys with sunken eyes, plied the streets. Chris and I refused to go into the tannery itself so I’m handing over the Graham to describe it…

‘Visiting the tanneries is both an under-whelming and over-whelming experience. Many will find the visit lacking in interest with few Instagram photo opportunities and will regret the time spent here. However, look closer at the traditional processes involved in turning the animal parts into soft supple leather and the working conditions of the 50/60 labourers and you will be both fascinated and appalled. The smell of the pigeon shit and animal parts is powerful, but push on…’

Penny back again! We were then ‘led’ to a large leather shop (with vastly inflated prices) where we steadfastly refused to buy anything and soon emerged back into the street, relieved to have escaped. Except we hadn’t, because we were accosted by the last ‘tour guide’ who demanded payment. We explained we had no change (which we hadn’t) so he then brought in the heavies i.e. his very aggressive mate who demanded money. So we had to pay close to £10 to go somewhere we didn't want to go and hated. Be warned, dear readers!

When we’d stopped heaving, we had a very delicious lunch in the rooftop terrace at L’Mida before wandering through more souks and through the gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque. We also walked through the Berber market which takes place in Marrakech on Saturdays, and is definitely worth exploring for some authenticity in what can be a very touristy city.

You’ll soon realise that many of the supposedly ‘handmade in Berber villages’ products for sale in the souks are, at best, made in Moroccan factories and at worst in India or China. But you can still find the genuine article, and the textiles and ceramics can be superb.

The Mouassine District, which is quieter and not so touristy, is definitely worth exploring. .You can also hire a guide (make sure they are an official one) who will help you avoid the scams. We didn't but wish we had, as we could have made better use of our limited time.

We didn't have time to visit the major attractions such as the Bahia Palace, the Saadian Tombs or Jardin Majorelle, which is a shame. Our friends (who know Morocco very well) have also recommended the Musée de la Palmeraie and Dar Si Said.

Finally (and after another trip to Chez Maazouz to watch the sunset) we treated ourselves to an upscale ‘last evening of the holiday’ meal at Le Trou au Mur which was lovely, although Chris was so scarred by his tanneries experience he couldn't face meat at the last minute and had macaroni cheese (a very delicious macaroni cheese, but nevertheless still macaroni cheese) I couldn't face another tagine so had tangia instead - opting for beef rather than camel 🤢

Does Marrakech live up to the hype?

So, based on our brief experience, I’d say that Marrakech is all the things I mentioned at the outset – both positive and negative.

It’s a humming, vibrant, beautiful, ancient city and hugely exotic and exciting. Just don’t visit in July-August (when temperatures exceed 45°C), keep your wits about you, be polite and friendly in your refusals, and don't get sucked into being taken to the tanneries!

Marrakech, Morocco

A first visit to Marrakesh, Morocco